Last weekend I successfully fixed the leaky toilet in the guest bath. (A straightforward job, except the shut-off valve is stuck. Tom pointed out that I could just shut off the main water supply. Voila! A toilet that doesn't run constantly.)
So today, I decided to tackle the drippy faucets, utilizing the same water-shut-off technique. One of these days we need to replace the shut off valves, but that's a task for another day. (Or, perhaps, for a plumber--I hate working in cramped spaces.)
This was by far the easiest plumbing task I've tackled. The two faucets I fixed are the old style wide-spread two handled faucets with the "crystal" knobs. You pop out the center piece to access the screw that holds the knob on, unscrew it, and lift the handle off. Then, you use the wrench to loosen the nut that holds the cartridge in place.
In theory, you just lift out the cartridge. In practice, I had to use the flat-head screwdriver to pry them loose. When I did the second set, I was able to loosen them a little with the screwdriver, and then grab them with the channel locks and pull them out.
Once I removed the cartridges, I reached in with the needlenose plyers to pull out the seats and springs. I had a moment of panic as I realized that putting the new seats and springs in wasn't nearly as easy as taking the old ones out. That's where the tweezers came into play. I used them to set the spring in place (narrow end up), and then put the seats on top of the springs. It still took a bit of fiddling with my finger to get the seats "seated", but the tweezers helped tremendously.
Then, it was just a matter of putting the new cartridges in place and putting everything back together. There's just one catch: it's not obvious which way to set the cartridges into place. They fit into the slots two ways. If you end up 180 degrees off, you have to turn the knob backwards to turn it on and off. I now understand why the one in our downstairs bath was screwy. I honestly didn't figure out an easy way to tell without putting it back together and turning the knob. At least it's easy to fix--take it back apart, rotate the cartridge 180 degrees, and reassemble.
Oh, and then check for drips. The master faucet was still drippy when I first reassembled it. I just repeated the process, made sure the seats didn't have any crud on them, and put them back together.
No more drips!
Tools required: Phillips screwdriver, flat-head screwdriver, needle nose plyers, tweezers, crescent or channel lock wrench.
Project time: 20 minutes
Difficulty level: Easy
PITA rating: Low
Sunday, October 12, 2014
Removing and Cleaning Patio Screen Doors
The spiders love the inside of the screens on our patio doors, but we don't love inviting them in every time we close the screens. After wrangling multiple wolf spiders back outside, I decided it was time to remove and clean the screens.
Our screens have rollers on the top and bottom. There are adjustment screws at each corner to raise or lower the rollers. Easy enough, loosen the screws, slide the putty knife in along the bottom edge to push the rollers up, and pull the bottom edge out of the track. Except there's one important thing:
Loosen the screws just enough that you can remove the screen!
Wanting to make sure the rollers would retract, I over-loosened the screws and they fell out when I removed the screen. Didn't seem like a big deal until I went to re-install them & realized that re-threading the screws was non-trivial. In fact, it requires partially removing the screen and disassembling the frame. Doh! I confess to giving up and taking them to the local screen shop. Turned out to be a wise decision--for $15, Templeton Glass saved me a considerable amount of frustration.
Tools Required: Thin putty knife, Philips screwdriver
Project Time: About an hour
Difficulty Level: Easy-Moderate
PITA Rating: Low-Moderate (as long as you don't over-loosen the screws!)
Our screens have rollers on the top and bottom. There are adjustment screws at each corner to raise or lower the rollers. Easy enough, loosen the screws, slide the putty knife in along the bottom edge to push the rollers up, and pull the bottom edge out of the track. Except there's one important thing:
Loosen the screws just enough that you can remove the screen!
Wanting to make sure the rollers would retract, I over-loosened the screws and they fell out when I removed the screen. Didn't seem like a big deal until I went to re-install them & realized that re-threading the screws was non-trivial. In fact, it requires partially removing the screen and disassembling the frame. Doh! I confess to giving up and taking them to the local screen shop. Turned out to be a wise decision--for $15, Templeton Glass saved me a considerable amount of frustration.
Tools Required: Thin putty knife, Philips screwdriver
Project Time: About an hour
Difficulty Level: Easy-Moderate
PITA Rating: Low-Moderate (as long as you don't over-loosen the screws!)
Saturday, July 13, 2013
Horizontal Blinds
There are some DIY projects I've done over and over, but still struggle with every time because I forget the "tricks". Installing blinds is one of those. It doesn't help that it typically involves having to reach up over your head to install the hardware. I hate that.
In theory, this is a pretty simple project: all you have to do is install two or three brackets, pop the top rail into the brackets, and remove any extra slats. Easy-peasy, right?
Well...almost. Provided you remember one very critical step that is *not* in the installation instructions. Before you do anything else, THROW AWAY THE INCLUDED SCREWS!
They're absolute garbage. If you try to use them, you will almost certainly strip at least one screw head while installing the brackets. Usually with a half-inch or so to go. (Yes, even if you pre-drill the holes like you're supposed to.) Save yourself the time and aggravation of struggling to remove the damn thing. When you buy your blinds, spend another buck or two and buy some decent screws. Even the ones in the assorted-sizes kits are vastly superior to the ones that come with the blinds. (In most cases, 8 1-1/4" #6 screws are all you need.)
The rest of the process is pretty straightforward. Removing the extra slats and retying all the knots is fiddly and tedious, but not hard. I generally cut the lift cords as long as possible and just stuff the excess into the bottom rail--much better to have them too long, than too short! When you tie them off, make sure the pull cords are adjusted the way you want. (When I installed our kitchen blind, I thought I'd somehow screwed up and cut the lift cords too short--until I realized the pull knobs were dragging on the counter.)
Tools Required: Cordless drill/driver, Flat-head screwdriver, Needlenose pliers, Scissors, Measuring tape, Pencil
Hardware Required: Replacement screws
Project Time: About an hour
Difficulty Level: Easy-Moderate
PITA Rating: Low-Moderate
In theory, this is a pretty simple project: all you have to do is install two or three brackets, pop the top rail into the brackets, and remove any extra slats. Easy-peasy, right?
Well...almost. Provided you remember one very critical step that is *not* in the installation instructions. Before you do anything else, THROW AWAY THE INCLUDED SCREWS!
They're absolute garbage. If you try to use them, you will almost certainly strip at least one screw head while installing the brackets. Usually with a half-inch or so to go. (Yes, even if you pre-drill the holes like you're supposed to.) Save yourself the time and aggravation of struggling to remove the damn thing. When you buy your blinds, spend another buck or two and buy some decent screws. Even the ones in the assorted-sizes kits are vastly superior to the ones that come with the blinds. (In most cases, 8 1-1/4" #6 screws are all you need.)
The rest of the process is pretty straightforward. Removing the extra slats and retying all the knots is fiddly and tedious, but not hard. I generally cut the lift cords as long as possible and just stuff the excess into the bottom rail--much better to have them too long, than too short! When you tie them off, make sure the pull cords are adjusted the way you want. (When I installed our kitchen blind, I thought I'd somehow screwed up and cut the lift cords too short--until I realized the pull knobs were dragging on the counter.)
Tools Required: Cordless drill/driver, Flat-head screwdriver, Needlenose pliers, Scissors, Measuring tape, Pencil
Hardware Required: Replacement screws
Project Time: About an hour
Difficulty Level: Easy-Moderate
PITA Rating: Low-Moderate
Sunday, April 28, 2013
Bi-fold Closet Doors
The contractor took down the bi-fold doors in the guest room to lay the new flooring. Almost 2 years ago. I've been camping in the guest room so I don't kick my SO's broken leg while I'm sleeping, and finally got sick enough of staring into the (funky, half-painted) closet to tackle re-hanging the doors.
What none of the instructions or videos I looked at bothered to mention is that you adjust the bottom pins (they're screws) to adjust the top clearance. Screw them too far in, and you'll have a big gap between the door and top moulding. Screw them too far out, and the door won't clear the moulding. It's kind of a Goldilocks thing, you want them to be "just right". Lets just say it took several attempts to find the sweet spot. And you have to remove the door to make adjustments. Since I was doing this by myself, that was a PITA.
The other important thing to note is that the position of the pin in the bottom bracket in relation to the top bracket in the track dictates whether or not the door hangs "plumb". Since you have to loosen the top bracket and slide it over so you can pop in the spring loaded pin on top of the door, and then slide it back into place, it's tricky to get it right. Especially, since the position of the pin in the bottom bracket, and the final position of the top bracket also control the left-right position of the door (and whether or not you have too big a gap between the doors, or not enough room to shut them.)
All said and done, it wasn't that hard to hang the doors, but I had to do it several times to get them positioned right. At least I don't have to stare at the ugly closet any more!
Tools Required: Screwdriver
Project Time: 30-45 minutes
Difficulty Level: Easy
PITA Rating: Moderate
What none of the instructions or videos I looked at bothered to mention is that you adjust the bottom pins (they're screws) to adjust the top clearance. Screw them too far in, and you'll have a big gap between the door and top moulding. Screw them too far out, and the door won't clear the moulding. It's kind of a Goldilocks thing, you want them to be "just right". Lets just say it took several attempts to find the sweet spot. And you have to remove the door to make adjustments. Since I was doing this by myself, that was a PITA.
The other important thing to note is that the position of the pin in the bottom bracket in relation to the top bracket in the track dictates whether or not the door hangs "plumb". Since you have to loosen the top bracket and slide it over so you can pop in the spring loaded pin on top of the door, and then slide it back into place, it's tricky to get it right. Especially, since the position of the pin in the bottom bracket, and the final position of the top bracket also control the left-right position of the door (and whether or not you have too big a gap between the doors, or not enough room to shut them.)
All said and done, it wasn't that hard to hang the doors, but I had to do it several times to get them positioned right. At least I don't have to stare at the ugly closet any more!
Tools Required: Screwdriver
Project Time: 30-45 minutes
Difficulty Level: Easy
PITA Rating: Moderate
It's Usually Not as Easy as They Make it Look
I love being able to find instructions and videos for random DIY projects on the Internet. However, after tackling a wide variety of projects, it's become abundantly clear that what you need to know to finish the job is often what they gloss over or edit out.
I suppose there's something to be said for making it look easy, but the reality is that it often isn't. However, if you know ahead of time what the trouble spots are, sometimes you can avoid them entirely. And if you can't, at least you know what you're really in for and have some idea how to work through the problems.
That's what this blog is about: highlighting the "gotchas" you're likely to encounter when tackling assorted DIY projects. Read the instructions and watch those slick videos, then come here to get the "dirt" on your next DIY adventure.
I suppose there's something to be said for making it look easy, but the reality is that it often isn't. However, if you know ahead of time what the trouble spots are, sometimes you can avoid them entirely. And if you can't, at least you know what you're really in for and have some idea how to work through the problems.
That's what this blog is about: highlighting the "gotchas" you're likely to encounter when tackling assorted DIY projects. Read the instructions and watch those slick videos, then come here to get the "dirt" on your next DIY adventure.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)